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Reeves. Modern English Tailoring.

'Reeves is a true bespoke tailoring house. Focused exclusively on only the highest quality work, bench made locally in New York. ... From Savile Row to NYC.'

 

REEVES BLOG

Modern English Tailoring

Filtering by Tag: scabal

Scabal "Colibri" cloth Review

David Reeves

Colibri described  by Scabal in their own words: True to its avian namesake, the award winning Colibri collection is alive with color and energy.

Including 18 articles that each experiment with color, weave or sheen. Gun club checks, jacquard patterns and checks are just some of the designs available, with others so innovative they have not yet been named.

Such a colorful collection is ideal for the informal connoisseur who wants something different, and the fashion forward man who enjoys style experimentation.

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Well….let’s dive in shall we?

This is an interesting book that unfortunately does not photograph too well on my iphone, too much color variation going on and this is a strength and a weakness of this rather flamboyant and whimsical collection, its amazing looking but ironically may not translate too well on camera.

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After showing this new book to a few clients initial reaction is a little negative at first perhaps when looked at in a purely modern commercial context, but when you frame these as rather fun and retro cloths, that perhaps Johhny Carson or a 60s or 70s playboy might wear people start to see the appeal.

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These are cloths which would be great for a host of a party or to wear at a fancy cocktail bar, to many this may seem like a frivolous use for bespoke tailoring but I am always of the mind that we are doing style here and style is all about who you are and your lifestyle and your choices.

I have seen (and encouraged) a real trend to not just confine bespoke tailoring to work or important meetings and events in the past few years. Usually this has meant dressing down bespoke and the utility of tweeds, moleskins and corduroys but maybe the next frontier is bringing fine(er) cloths into our leisure time as well? Maybe its about what we wear on a Friday or Saturday night and this is about refinement, sophistication but also fun and of course confidence.

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My only real critisim of this book outside of its rather niche context is that it sometimes does not go far enough, we have quite a few repeat patterns here in different color ways and at 18 cloths the book is not quite the bold offering it could be but I can understand why.

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Colibri is not for everyone, its rather advanced and will probably be for the client of considerable means who has his” basic” Bespoke wardrobe covered, nothing wrong with that though. I think it is great that cloth houses are taking risks with cloths like this rather than going for the safe route of the mythical all year round, fits all needs, "commercial cloth" with colors and patterns like we see everywhere else.

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Colibri is 100% wool made in England and weighs in at 250 grams or 8.8 ozs

My personal rating is  a solid 3 out of 5 stars, this is brought down from 4 because of the limited nature of the collection but also because there are a couple of weak patterns here design wise which bring down the overall rating and stand out especially, again, in such a small offering, still a very interesting book and worth a look.

 

 

 

 

WHAT IS A BESPOKE SUIT?

David Reeves

I get asked this a lot these days working in New York. What exactly is a Bespoke Suit? What goes into it? Well, here is the Oxford dictionary definition of Bespoke:

bespoke

Syllabification: (be·spoke)
Pronunciation: /biˈspōk/
Definition of bespoke

adjective

[attributive] chiefly British

  • (of goods, especially clothing) made to order:a bespoke suit
  • (of a trader) creating made-to-order goods:bespoke tailors

It is a fairly broad term and in the strictest sense is the English equivalent to what would be called a custom suit in the U.S.A.

Its also a rather trendy word now that tailors in the U.S, Italy and even the U.K like to use more and more. Its a very old English word that I really learned, when I was 19 years of age, back when I started my first day of work at Savile Row tailor, Gieves and Hawkes. It was instilled in me that a Bespoke suit was a purely hand made garment (except for the long seams) with multiple fittings or "tryons" and an individual pattern made and stored for every client (the blueprint of the suit). Perhaps more than all that it was the pinnacle, the very best that the house could make or indeed could be made.

David Reeves Bespoke suit

Nowadays, strictly speaking, any kind of "custom" or "made to measure suit", made in a factory from stock patterns with little handwork could be described as a Bespoke suit and it often is.

I feel with the term being so broad that it is really important to find out how the bespoke tailoring house itself defines what a bespoke suit is.

What does it mean to me? Well it isn't about marketing, for me its just a term I have been using all my working life. I still define the term as I did  working on Savile Row. I hold myself and my company up to those standards of quality, service and authenticity.

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I seek out the very best makers and work with them on a daily basis to produce my bespoke suits which are all made the old fashioned way, locally with a needle and thread. I don't do this  because it is easy, I do it because it is hard, and this is the only way to make quite simply the very best mens clothes that Gentlemen can buy.

A David Reeves Bespoke suit will always be made locally. An individual pattern will be made stored and amended as need be for the client and the service will involve multiple fittings, including a try on to ensure the right finesse of fit. David Reeves Bespoke suits  are always made from high end cloths such as H Lesser, Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Zegna and Scabal as standard.

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