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Reeves. Modern English Tailoring.

'Reeves is a true bespoke tailoring house. Focused exclusively on only the highest quality work, bench made locally in New York. ... From Savile Row to NYC.'

 

REEVES BLOG

Modern English Tailoring

Filtering by Tag: H Lesser

WHAT IS A BESPOKE SUIT?

David Reeves

I get asked this a lot these days working in New York. What exactly is a Bespoke Suit? What goes into it? Well, here is the Oxford dictionary definition of Bespoke:

bespoke

Syllabification: (be·spoke)
Pronunciation: /biˈspōk/
Definition of bespoke

adjective

[attributive] chiefly British

  • (of goods, especially clothing) made to order:a bespoke suit
  • (of a trader) creating made-to-order goods:bespoke tailors

It is a fairly broad term and in the strictest sense is the English equivalent to what would be called a custom suit in the U.S.A.

Its also a rather trendy word now that tailors in the U.S, Italy and even the U.K like to use more and more. Its a very old English word that I really learned, when I was 19 years of age, back when I started my first day of work at Savile Row tailor, Gieves and Hawkes. It was instilled in me that a Bespoke suit was a purely hand made garment (except for the long seams) with multiple fittings or "tryons" and an individual pattern made and stored for every client (the blueprint of the suit). Perhaps more than all that it was the pinnacle, the very best that the house could make or indeed could be made.

David Reeves Bespoke suit

Nowadays, strictly speaking, any kind of "custom" or "made to measure suit", made in a factory from stock patterns with little handwork could be described as a Bespoke suit and it often is.

I feel with the term being so broad that it is really important to find out how the bespoke tailoring house itself defines what a bespoke suit is.

What does it mean to me? Well it isn't about marketing, for me its just a term I have been using all my working life. I still define the term as I did  working on Savile Row. I hold myself and my company up to those standards of quality, service and authenticity.

photo-68

I seek out the very best makers and work with them on a daily basis to produce my bespoke suits which are all made the old fashioned way, locally with a needle and thread. I don't do this  because it is easy, I do it because it is hard, and this is the only way to make quite simply the very best mens clothes that Gentlemen can buy.

A David Reeves Bespoke suit will always be made locally. An individual pattern will be made stored and amended as need be for the client and the service will involve multiple fittings, including a try on to ensure the right finesse of fit. David Reeves Bespoke suits  are always made from high end cloths such as H Lesser, Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Zegna and Scabal as standard.

PATTERN SLEEVE

TINKER TAILOR SOLDIER SPY: ANTI FASHION TAILORING

David Reeves

I am eagerly awaiting the British  film "Tinker tailor soldier spy" being released here in New York. Based on the classic novel of the same name, the international thriller is set during the Cold War years of the 1970s. George Smiley (Gary Oldman), a disgraced British spy, is rehired in secret by his government - which fears that the British Secret Intelligence Service, a.k.a. MI-6 or the "Circus", has been compromised by a double agent working for the Soviets.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aco15ScXCwA]

Control, the Circus Chief, assigns the code names "Tinker", "Tailor", "Soldier", "Poorman" and "Beggarman" to various senior intelligence officers under suspicion of being the Soviet mole, with the intention that should an agent called Prideaux uncover information about the identity of the mole he can relay it back using an easy-to-recall code the mole is unaware of. The names are derived from the English children's rhyme "Tinker Tailor". In the book and film, "Sailor" is not used as it sounds too much like "Tailor". So there aren't in fact any "tailors" in this film but there are some interesting clothes for sure.

Before we go on about the film though its also worth mentioning in addition to the novel this film has some big shoes to fill in regards to the excellent T.V series adaptation from 1974 starring Sir Alec Guiness. If you have the opportunity you should watch this as well but beware its very complicated and makes Inception seem like Police Academy 4.

Jacqueline Durran costume designer for the film deduced that the British Spies would have probably shopped on Jermyn Street, the Burlington Arcade and Savile Row. The clothes in this film are very, very English conservative and rarely indicate the period in which they are set, theres no big flares or wide lapels except in moderation on some of the younger characters. Her thinking was that the characters had bought their suits 10 years ago in a classic style so they were immune to the disco era look. What we see is a rather austere look with very little glamour and this fits the subject rather well. These spies are not about James Bond glamour its about constant paranoia and deception with no means to achieve a final victory. Even so though this austere look can be very stylish because its so genuinely "Anti Fashion".

Speaking of anti fashion and suits that last 10 years I just got the 16oz heavy weight Lesser book this Morning. I got it from a Russian contact, Code name: Fabric Czar.

Tinker tailor soldier spy is released stateside December 9th.