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Reeves. Modern English Tailoring.

'Reeves is a true bespoke tailoring house. Focused exclusively on only the highest quality work, bench made locally in New York. ... From Savile Row to NYC.'

 

REEVES BLOG

Modern English Tailoring

Filtering by Tag: Bespoke

Scabal "Colibri" cloth Review

David Reeves

Colibri described  by Scabal in their own words: True to its avian namesake, the award winning Colibri collection is alive with color and energy.

Including 18 articles that each experiment with color, weave or sheen. Gun club checks, jacquard patterns and checks are just some of the designs available, with others so innovative they have not yet been named.

Such a colorful collection is ideal for the informal connoisseur who wants something different, and the fashion forward man who enjoys style experimentation.

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Well….let’s dive in shall we?

This is an interesting book that unfortunately does not photograph too well on my iphone, too much color variation going on and this is a strength and a weakness of this rather flamboyant and whimsical collection, its amazing looking but ironically may not translate too well on camera.

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After showing this new book to a few clients initial reaction is a little negative at first perhaps when looked at in a purely modern commercial context, but when you frame these as rather fun and retro cloths, that perhaps Johhny Carson or a 60s or 70s playboy might wear people start to see the appeal.

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These are cloths which would be great for a host of a party or to wear at a fancy cocktail bar, to many this may seem like a frivolous use for bespoke tailoring but I am always of the mind that we are doing style here and style is all about who you are and your lifestyle and your choices.

I have seen (and encouraged) a real trend to not just confine bespoke tailoring to work or important meetings and events in the past few years. Usually this has meant dressing down bespoke and the utility of tweeds, moleskins and corduroys but maybe the next frontier is bringing fine(er) cloths into our leisure time as well? Maybe its about what we wear on a Friday or Saturday night and this is about refinement, sophistication but also fun and of course confidence.

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My only real critisim of this book outside of its rather niche context is that it sometimes does not go far enough, we have quite a few repeat patterns here in different color ways and at 18 cloths the book is not quite the bold offering it could be but I can understand why.

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Colibri is not for everyone, its rather advanced and will probably be for the client of considerable means who has his” basic” Bespoke wardrobe covered, nothing wrong with that though. I think it is great that cloth houses are taking risks with cloths like this rather than going for the safe route of the mythical all year round, fits all needs, "commercial cloth" with colors and patterns like we see everywhere else.

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Colibri is 100% wool made in England and weighs in at 250 grams or 8.8 ozs

My personal rating is  a solid 3 out of 5 stars, this is brought down from 4 because of the limited nature of the collection but also because there are a couple of weak patterns here design wise which bring down the overall rating and stand out especially, again, in such a small offering, still a very interesting book and worth a look.

 

 

 

 

Tweed, Glorious Tweed.

David Reeves

Grey Tweed three piece suit, Porter and harding cloth As many of my regular clients know I am a huge tweed fan, but not “that kind” of tweed fan, you will not see me sporting a handlebar moustache and wheeling through Bushwick on a “Penny Farthing”.

No, I am a fan not for nostalgia but for its real relevance today. More and more we are working out of site of our clients and our peers, most of us do not need to wear "Goldman Sachs approved business wear" on a daily basis. A tweed sport coat is such an extremely useful garment and a real wise investment piece for any man (or woman) especially in NYC.

Paired with say some APC jeans, a shirt and some smarter shoes you have an easy and very cool urban look……yes urban. A tweed jacket is not just for grouse hunting its also great because unlike that lovely silk jacket you don’t need to worry about putting the sleeves on a cocktail bar. You can throw that tweed jacket around and lie on it during a transatlantic flight and it will only add more character. You can wear tweed with stubble and a beard or you can clean yourself up and smarten that jacket up with some nice trousers and a tie. Really a tweed jacket is a staple piece that after a while becomes an old friend.

Practicality aside Tweed is also very fashionable right now and being a leading edge maker I was very excited to recently start working with a small “artisnal” mill in Donegal Ireland called Molloy and Sons. Check out this short video about them:

http://vimeo.com/jamiedelaney/molloyandsons

Very, very cool, everyone in the industry is excited about these guys. Ralph Lauren will be working with them in 2015 and my friend Michael from Drakes nearly spat out his G&T with excitement when I told him I was making up their cloths.

So Molloy and Sons is the new hip kid on the block, but aside from them I also have my usual wide range of very traditional offerings from Wbill and Porter and Harding that have enduring quality and look great made up in one of my timelessly sharp cuts.

Here are some tweeds I have turned out so far this fall.

Molloy and Sons Tweed By David Reeves

Porter and Harding tweed by David Reeves

Green Plaid Tweed Porter and Harding by David Reeves

Three Piece tweed Porter and Harding by David Reeves

Blue Donegal Thorn proof tweed by Porter and Harding, made by David Reeves

LORO PIANA CUSTOM SHIRTINGS

David Reeves

Image Its been a scorcher in New York this week and the first of the custom summer clothes have started to come through and be delivered. From the shirtmaker in Manchester I got these shirts, made up from Loro Piana cotton and linen goods. The cotton gives the linen a softer handle and negates the creasing present in regular linen. The colors and prints on these shirts are very clear and vivid, paired with slim fit cotton trousers they are impressive enough to be worn with or without a suit or sport coat.

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You can find out more about Loro Piana here:http://www.loropiana.com/flash.html#/lang:en/