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Reeves. Modern English Tailoring.

'Reeves is a true bespoke tailoring house. Focused exclusively on only the highest quality work, bench made locally in New York. ... From Savile Row to NYC.'

 

REEVES BLOG

Modern English Tailoring

Reeves .THE FALL RETROSPECTIVE.

David Reeves

After a big push by designers and cloth houses on Tweed last fall/winter, this years "fall cloth" for Reeves has been lighter weight flannel. Both Loro Piana and Scabal released new, and chunky flannel books last year and this got a lot people in the tailoring community (myself included) very excited about this cold weather cloth. image1

The color of choice was the ever popular ink blue or French navy blue that we have been seeing in menswear for quite some time although the blues are getting even lighter. The big surprise was the second color that was pushed by  Loro Piana especially, namely burgundy or claret. Silhouettes continued to lengthen and lapels got wider at Reeves as stylistically I am feeling more and more a trend towards the late 70s and early 80s as an influence on fashion, art and design.

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Tweed was still very popular and I think will be for some time to come, the versatility and ease of it is ideal for the less structured working lives we mostly all have now. The old world charm of this cloth is still very hip and I am even seeing bankers ordering full tweed suits now which is quite extraordinary.

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Finally I started seeing a resurgence in pinstripes and larger stripes amongst CEOs and bankers. Its interesting to see these cloths come back to the business world and at first it seems  in contrast to the tweed phenomenon at least if we look at suits and cloths using their traditional signifiers. What we are seeing is a general trend across all fields towards nostalgia but with a need to be seen as dynamic and above all successful individuals in uncertain and changing times. This attitude is pushing out the "timeless" "four season" plain navy or charcoal suit which is all about staying still and anonymity.

The leading edge are past now very dated ideas about "appropriate" for town, country, business or pleasure. It doesn't matter if you are wearing H Lesser Chalk Stripes or Harris Tweed as long as your tailoring is of the best quality and you look great wearing it.

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DAVID'S LAST SUMMER (2015)

David Reeves

It was Labor Day yesterday which means summer has drawn to a close here in the U.S. Early birds are already ordering flannels and tweeds, and I myself am looking forward to dressing up in some new fall clothes.

Before we move into Fall/Winter, I thought I would share a little retrospective of some of the clothing I made up this past Spring/Summer.

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First up we have more of a spring/early summer suit. Made from Scabal capri cloth, this lightweight wool has a natural stretch. This look is really intended for making up colorful trousers to go with summer jackets, but it works well for suits as well. The jacket is half lined and the buttons are a dark blue pearl. I was going for a rather 70's Bryan Ferry vibe with this piece- reflected in the color and styling. As a two piece suit without the vest, though, this suit still manages to look very modern.

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Next is something I have wanted to do for a long time. Its' a three piece silk & linen suit made from Dormeuil cloth, and it is based on the suit worn by "Camp Freddy" in the 1969 film "The Italian Job". The 1960s were drawing to a close when the film came out and we start to see more flamboyant 60s styles evolving into the 70s. Of course this is a rather crazy suit that is NSFW unless you are someone like David Bowie, but given the right context or maybe worn as a separate jacket for a garden party, this is a stunning piece.

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Above, we have a silk & wool jacket made from Scabal "Acapulco" cloth. The buttons are smoked mother of pearl. This is a funny one because I was talking to a regular client of mine and wanted to make this up for him. I joked with him that if he didn't go for it, I would. Well, he didn't, so I did! My client instead decided on a very nice silk and linen summer jacket in a solid sky blue color. He's happy with his, but I'm perhaps even happier.

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A rather mod looking 3 button seersucker sport coat. This seersucker is rather special, as it's 100% Zegna silk. It is unlined and has a rather soft "shirt sleeve" shoulder. Very classic. Patriotic. It's served me well on vacation, easily thrown on with jeans, and has sparked many a conversation at parties, styled with white trousers (see below.)

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BADA BING! 100% Zegna silk. This suit look like chrome and feels unbelievable. Buttons are mother of pearl. Naturally. The cloth has a faint herringbone weave, and although very delicate, is very beautiful.

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Finally, another suit I have wanted to do for a long time- an iconic white linen double breasted suit. The linen is from Dormeuil. I made up two pairs of trousers to go with this jacket so as to extend the life of the suit. It's not a practical city suit, but then that is sort of the point. The feeling of wearing a white linen suit in New York is quite extraordinary as you feel a heightened awareness of your surroundings, you move more deliberately, more carefully, and I would say more gracefully. Very old Hollywood. A martini in hand has never looked better.