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Reeves. Modern English Tailoring.

'Reeves is a true bespoke tailoring house. Focused exclusively on only the highest quality work, bench made locally in New York. ... From Savile Row to NYC.'

 

REEVES BLOG

Modern English Tailoring

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Scabal "Colibri" cloth Review

David Reeves

Colibri described  by Scabal in their own words: True to its avian namesake, the award winning Colibri collection is alive with color and energy.

Including 18 articles that each experiment with color, weave or sheen. Gun club checks, jacquard patterns and checks are just some of the designs available, with others so innovative they have not yet been named.

Such a colorful collection is ideal for the informal connoisseur who wants something different, and the fashion forward man who enjoys style experimentation.

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Well….let’s dive in shall we?

This is an interesting book that unfortunately does not photograph too well on my iphone, too much color variation going on and this is a strength and a weakness of this rather flamboyant and whimsical collection, its amazing looking but ironically may not translate too well on camera.

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After showing this new book to a few clients initial reaction is a little negative at first perhaps when looked at in a purely modern commercial context, but when you frame these as rather fun and retro cloths, that perhaps Johhny Carson or a 60s or 70s playboy might wear people start to see the appeal.

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These are cloths which would be great for a host of a party or to wear at a fancy cocktail bar, to many this may seem like a frivolous use for bespoke tailoring but I am always of the mind that we are doing style here and style is all about who you are and your lifestyle and your choices.

I have seen (and encouraged) a real trend to not just confine bespoke tailoring to work or important meetings and events in the past few years. Usually this has meant dressing down bespoke and the utility of tweeds, moleskins and corduroys but maybe the next frontier is bringing fine(er) cloths into our leisure time as well? Maybe its about what we wear on a Friday or Saturday night and this is about refinement, sophistication but also fun and of course confidence.

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My only real critisim of this book outside of its rather niche context is that it sometimes does not go far enough, we have quite a few repeat patterns here in different color ways and at 18 cloths the book is not quite the bold offering it could be but I can understand why.

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Colibri is not for everyone, its rather advanced and will probably be for the client of considerable means who has his” basic” Bespoke wardrobe covered, nothing wrong with that though. I think it is great that cloth houses are taking risks with cloths like this rather than going for the safe route of the mythical all year round, fits all needs, "commercial cloth" with colors and patterns like we see everywhere else.

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Colibri is 100% wool made in England and weighs in at 250 grams or 8.8 ozs

My personal rating is  a solid 3 out of 5 stars, this is brought down from 4 because of the limited nature of the collection but also because there are a couple of weak patterns here design wise which bring down the overall rating and stand out especially, again, in such a small offering, still a very interesting book and worth a look.

 

 

 

 

Reeves .THE FALL RETROSPECTIVE.

David Reeves

After a big push by designers and cloth houses on Tweed last fall/winter, this years "fall cloth" for Reeves has been lighter weight flannel. Both Loro Piana and Scabal released new, and chunky flannel books last year and this got a lot people in the tailoring community (myself included) very excited about this cold weather cloth. image1

The color of choice was the ever popular ink blue or French navy blue that we have been seeing in menswear for quite some time although the blues are getting even lighter. The big surprise was the second color that was pushed by  Loro Piana especially, namely burgundy or claret. Silhouettes continued to lengthen and lapels got wider at Reeves as stylistically I am feeling more and more a trend towards the late 70s and early 80s as an influence on fashion, art and design.

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Tweed was still very popular and I think will be for some time to come, the versatility and ease of it is ideal for the less structured working lives we mostly all have now. The old world charm of this cloth is still very hip and I am even seeing bankers ordering full tweed suits now which is quite extraordinary.

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Finally I started seeing a resurgence in pinstripes and larger stripes amongst CEOs and bankers. Its interesting to see these cloths come back to the business world and at first it seems  in contrast to the tweed phenomenon at least if we look at suits and cloths using their traditional signifiers. What we are seeing is a general trend across all fields towards nostalgia but with a need to be seen as dynamic and above all successful individuals in uncertain and changing times. This attitude is pushing out the "timeless" "four season" plain navy or charcoal suit which is all about staying still and anonymity.

The leading edge are past now very dated ideas about "appropriate" for town, country, business or pleasure. It doesn't matter if you are wearing H Lesser Chalk Stripes or Harris Tweed as long as your tailoring is of the best quality and you look great wearing it.

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