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Reeves. Modern English Tailoring.

REEVES BLOG

Modern English Tailoring

DAVID REEVES IS PLEASED TO PRESENT H LESSER: "THE" SAVILE ROW CLOTH FOR USE IN HIS BESPOKE AND CUSTOM SUITS IN NYC

David Reeves

H Lesser cloths are distinctly English. Not something you see often in NYC custom tailoring, heavy in weight, dense, easy to tailor and drape, exceptionally durable they are the Savile Row "old guards" favored cloth. H Lesser has been constructing high quality English cloths in the same manner as when they first started doing business in the early 20th century.

To be honest when I was working on Savile row I sort of became bored of its ubiquity. I then and do now generally favor lighter, modern, luxurious cloths by houses like Dormeuil, Zegna and Loro Piana. I always consider David Reeves to be leading edge in terms of knowledge and access to modern cloths even though the construction and style of my suits is rather traditional. The Savile Row idea of a suit lasting 30 years and being built for extreme durability seemed outmoded to me as I believed that the nature of the business had fundamentally changed (even more so) squarely to a luxury one. So my love of beautiful "fashion" fabrics was rather unusual on Savile Row really.

Terribly heavy cloth, terribly, terribly British

That said you never know what you have until it is lost and Lesser after 100 years of being family owned very nearly disappeared forever in 2010. With less demand for this very traditional, English cloth in heavier weights (13 oz is considered medium weight by Lesser standards) and the economy the way it has been the business unfortunately closed down. English tailors (and quite a lot of Italian tailors) were crestfallen. Fortunately H Lesser was saved by one of their competitors Harrisons, and they are just getting production and distribution back up to speed of this steadfast and high quality English cloth that was just "too heavy to fail".

Lesser certainly has a heritage, it is certainly a quality cloth just of a different quality with different priorities than the fashion textiles of today. Aside from the durability it evokes a feeling of a time past, of  Atlanticists and statesmen from the 1900s up to the modern era of mens clothing in the 60s. The weight, depth of color, drape and conservative nature of these cloths is a look in unto itself and depending on context could be very fashion forward in 2011. What is old is new again and with shows like Boardwalk Empire and Prohibition I think there will be a new appeal for these cloths.

Atlanticists

Theres certainly a lot to appreciate about these cloths and there rarity in NYC the U.S.A and the world in general makes them particularly appealing. I am also thinking about winter in NYC and a charcoal suit in an indestructible cloth with a warm heavy weight sounds fantastic.

I currently have the 13 oz "medium weight" book but will be looking to acquire the rather hardcore and niche 16 oz heavy weight suiting book as soon as possible.

If you like heavier weight cloths, these are the ones to go for as they are unarguably the finest of a now rare breed. They will especially be a great complement to my traditionally constructed bespoke suits, which will allow New Yorkers access, right here to an even more traditional Savile Row look.