This season its all about Flannel. Dormuil (of course) has a nice selection in modern colors and designs in their "Ice" range. What is quite interesting about Ice is the Mohair blends which mean that you can have a neatly tailored garment that fits closely especially in the leg and knees without any of the stretch that you get from regular flannel.
I have also been doing some sourcing recently and was very impressed with Zegna's "very Italian" looking Flannels (see top jacket in image). Zegna is very strong this season especially their "traveller" cloth. Travel cloths I have always found a bit unconvincing as they never seem so luxurious to me. Traveller's hand however is very soft and indistinguishable from a high end 120 from Loro Piana or Dormeuil. Its certainly a cloth my clients have been asking for as its the type that can go in an overhead locker and still look great after a 12 hour flight.
Style wise I think double breasted suits will continue to emerge as the leading edge successor to the 3 piece suit. This suit in pale (dove) grey flannel is the way to go with optional cuffs and maybe a pleated trouser. In terms of color we are seeing a trend towards colors from the 50s lots of browns and greys, lots of grey cobalt blues, punctuated by very modern colors like lime green and international Klein Blue to bring us back to the present.
Fall rush really started the last two weeks of August and theres some very nice pieces going through right now. Highlights include a pale grey Ice flannel, some Sportex and as usual lots of Mohair. I cant wait to see them finished and to get my new Sportex jacket. In a few weeks I will be doing a shoot of these pieces and I will be posting pictures here and in my view book gallery.
Have a good week everybody.