The client selected a Dormeuil wool and cashmere blend cloth (80/20%) in a 17oz weight. I had used this cloth several times to make overcoats, but to make this coat extra warm we decided to quilt the lining and also to make a detachable quilted lining which evolved into a vest.
We decided on a classic Chesterfield or "Crombie" style coat which is a fairly tailored coat featuring a fly front. Often this coat features a contrasting or matching collar in velvet but for durability I advised using a fine black moleskin from Holland and Sherry. Another idea behind this choice was that I wanted to make the vest from this cloth so I felt that it tied the two pieces together nicely.
In the above photograph you can see how the vest attaches via buttons as well as the actual coat interior. The sleeve linings of the coat were not quilted as I thought this would hinder movement so I used a heavy viscose/cotton lining here and for the vest interior. The large "poachers pocket" otherwise known as a newspaper pocket is rather useful for gloves or a scarf.
All manufacturing work on this coat was carried out locally in New York and all materials were sourced from England, France or the U.S.A